A sampling of paper mementos from the Aussie restaurants we loved

Where to Eat in Australia

August 05, 2014 by Kristen in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Food, News, Places, Travel

Australia has something for every palate, whether you’re an adventurous eater or a comfort seeker, a fine dining guru or a streetfood junkie. But with so many food options at hand, making the decision of where to eat can be daunting. Lucky for you, we've gone and done all the (delicious) work. So here is the list, in order, of our top 10 meals Down Under. Happy dining!

10. Little Creatures, Melbourne, Fitzroy

Walking into this warehouse-turned-eatery in Melbourne’s hippest neighborhood, it’s hard not to fall instantly in love. An impossibly expansive dining room, smart industrial-chic decor (we loved the palette tabletops and beer bottle chandeliers), and a wall of windows looking out to the street make this place a perfect spot to sit and ponder your next moves over a flight of their craft beers and delicious pizza.

9. Grill'd Healthy Burgers, Sydney, Darlinghurst

A glowing example of how to do fast food right, Grill’d caught our eye for its food philosophy, serving up the highest-quality local ingredients for their burgers. We absolutely loved the Darlinghurst location, with its vertical subway tiles and bold wall graphics. Since this chain has hit it big, they’re sprouting up locations all across Australia, so get out there and find one near you. We devoured the Baa Baa Burger (local grass-fed lamb, avocado, cheese, spicy mayo, lettuce, and tomato on a sourdough roll), which we would order again and again and again.

8. Nina's Ploy Thai, Sydney, North Bondi

Tucked on a side road just off the main drag in Bondi, this restaurant is as unassuming as they come: white walls and pink tables topped with tissue dispensers make it clear that this is a no-frills kind of place that is well off the tourist map. The hand-written Chef Suggestion chalkboard caught our eye as we were seated, so we ordered two dishes from it: drunk noodles and duck noodle soup. All it took was a whiff of our quickly delivered meal for us to realize why this restaurant is a favorite of locals: it’s totally authentic.

Duck Noodle Soup at Nina’s Ploy Thai in Sydney

7. Overlanders Steakhouse, Alice Springs

This is the kind of place Outback Steakhouse is trying to emulate. Upon walking in, patrons are instantly transported back in time to Central Australia’s cattle driving cowboy days, with saddles lining the rafters and livestock hides displaying the region’s various branding logos. This is a classic outback saloon, serving up standard grilled proteins like beef and chicken, along with Aussie delicacies like kangaroo, emu, camel and crocodile. Get a flag of your country placed on your table and then order the sampler to try it all. Tip: go in the high season and be treated to a wobbleboard show.

6. Magic Wok, Darwin, CBD

Normally, create-your-own dish places seem more gimmicky than about the food. But when we heard about a place described as both an “experience” and “institution” on more than one occasion, we ditched our preconceptions. Where else can you get customized wok stir-fries with obscure Australian ingredients? A friendly waitress gives newcomers a rundown, and then the fun begins: assemble a tray of veggies and meats like crocodile, kangaroo, emu, camel and even horse; then, pick your sauces and pass it into the fiery kitchen. It turns out delicious no matter what you pick. Just don’t get too ambitious: you pay based on how much your wok weighs.

5. Mondo Organics, Brisbane, West End

Set in a quiet Brisbane neighborhood, this open-aire restaurant absolutely floored us. Australia’s first certified organic restaurant, Mondo Organics opened in 2000 and has built a name for itself using ingredients that, along with its namesake, are local, sustainable, and seasonal. The elegant-yet-casual interior is warm and inviting, with an upscale beachy feel owing to the large windows with wooden shutters. We dined on two home run dishes: pork belly and slow-roasted pork shoulder. Next time we’re in town, we’ll enroll in one of their cooking classes!

4. Parap Market, Darwin, Parap Village

A walk around the food vendors at the Parap Saturday market in Darwin is a trip. Passing by the dragon fruits, the bubbling curries, and fiery woks, you may begin to wonder if you somehow teleported to Southeast Asia. This buzzing market scene is exactly the stuff of our travel wishlists, and part of the reason why Darwin is known as the market capital of Australia. Try the laksa, a spicy Indonesian coconut noodle soup, by hopping into the line for Mary’s (it’s the longest one). Guaranteed bliss.

Laksa, an Indonesian curry soup — Laksa at Parap Market

3. PUBLIC, Brisbane, CBD

A short walk from the Queen Street Mall, this sophisticated yet casual fine dining spot in the heart of the Central Business District is sure to wow. Truth be told, we found this place on a chance recommendation from a tweeting stranger based out of Brisbane. But we would keep coming back to this beautiful restaurant for the craft cocktails, friendly servers and clever menu. Anyone who’s heard of Kentucky-Fried Chicken must try the KFD (D as in Duck), for a poultry revelation. Our most memorable dish? Hands down, the “can o’ worms:” fried mealworms with bean sprouts tossed in soy sauce, served in a can and eaten ever-so-elegantly with chopsticks. Crunchy, salty and delicious!

2. MoVida Aqui, Melbourne, CBD

We thank the dining gods (and Frank Camorra, executive chef) for making MoVida more accessible, with restaurants scattered across Melbourne and Sydney. The bright and airy Aqui location is chic and adorable, with its smart design touches like bright plastic crates hanging over the bar and hand-drawn cartoonish illustrations of octopus and other ingredients, which give the otherwise ultra-modern space a playful touch. Start with the out-of-this-world delicious anchoa tapas: house-made crackers topped with anchovies and smoked tomato sorbet. Even after sharing three more spectacular courses (wallaby tartare, calamari sandwich, and braised beef), we were sure to save room for the flan, which was silky perfection.

1. Hanuman, Darwin, CBD

Neon purples, pinks and blues illuminate the dining room, a testament to the unique experience Hanuman is sure to offer every diner. Our interest was piqued as soon as we heard the food described as Thai-Indian, which sounded like a win-win to us. Eager to sample as much as possible, we ordered what seemed like the whole menu: butter chicken, coconut prawns, beef massaman and spicy eggplant, along with the mind-blowing must-try signature dish: lightly steamed oysters with lemongrass, basil, ginger, chili and fresh coriander, served in little clay pots. The unique bold flavors won our tastebuds over, but our above-and-beyond server, who helped us navigate the menu to create such a memorable meal, won our hearts.

We know there are many more amazing meals out there, so if you've been to Australia, where's your favorite place to eat? Let us know in the comments!

Dipping into the West Macs

April 21, 2014 by Loren in Australia, DTour, Outdoors, Places, Travel

All around me, rocky orange cliffs towered toward the cyan-blue sky. Below me, fish were swimming in a higher-than-usual river. I couldn’t believe this was the middle of Australia. With a nickname like the Red Centre, I’d never imagined finding this much green in the desert. But here I was, in the heat of February’s summer sun, soaking in a lush paradise.

It was our last of four days in Alice Springs, and it was to be a busy one. The DoubleTree by Hilton had booked me a day trip into the West MacDonnell Ranges, followed immediately by a sunset camel ride with Pyndan Camel Tracks, which the rain had canceled days before. Waiting in the lobby at 7am with a friendly smile was Ben, our guide from Alice Wanderer (we’d later find out that this day was his first-ever solo guide). After our previous day’s time-regimented tour of Uluru, his casual style was welcome. At his emphatic urging, we ran back to the room to grab bathing suits and towels, not quite sure why we’d need them in the desert.

Three days earlier, while looking down from the plane at the “West Macs,” the ancient mountains that extend out from the city’s east and west sides, they looked like brown carpet wrinkles. Our initial impressions: not great. But on the ground and up close, they easily take on a majestic tone. And lucky for us, in the few short days since we had landed, the oft-dry Alice had received a whopping 40mm of rainfall.

Ben pulled the bus into a forested parking lot and the eight of us piled out and began hiking through green-ferned canyons and spring-fed creeks, craning our necks to look for rock wallabies. Fifteen minutes in, we stood inside Standley Chasm, a skyscraper-tall quartzite gap with a small creek at one end. The sunlight illuminated the walls like glowing terra cotta. I spotted a few frogs perched on tiny ledges above the water, reminders of this land’s ancient rainforest.

After a short bus ride, we arrived at Ellery Creek Big Hole, and finally changed into our “swimmers” before walking off down a path. The enormous outdoor pool was a genuine oasis, framed with cliffs on either side. “This isn’t even my favorite spot," Ben confessed plainly. We swam and waded lazily in the high water, wondering how it could get any better than this.

To get to nearby Glen Helen Gorge, we’d have to cross the Finke River. Normally, the slow trickle of the world's oldest river wouldn't pose any problems, but that day's calf-deep waters and wobbly rocks sought to test our determination. Once across, we laid out our towels and jumped in while black swans eyed us from a safe distance.

The local Arrernte people call these rippling ranges Yipirinya, for their resemblance to caterpillars caravanning in long, wavy lines. It’s easy to see why all of these cliffs, gorges, gaps and chasms have been so inviting for thousands of years. The ochre pits were plentiful sources for pigment. Many natural rocky alcoves became sacred gathering places. And the waterholes continue to be perfect for playtime.

This is where Australia's green and yellow colors come from

By the time we arrived at Ormiston Gorge, our final swimming hole of the day (and our guide’s favorite), our excitement had still not faded. Pointing with his outstretched finger, Ben told us that down the river and around the bend was a magnificent view of the whole canyon. Being the only “adventurous types” in the group, we accepted the challenge and swam through the deep water. We had the entire sundrenched view to ourselves. We turned back reluctantly, and (per usual) we were the last ones back on the bus.

Classic Australia Road Sign Kangaroo Crossing

In the end, we made it to our camel ride just in time. Though camels aren’t native to Australia, they’re perfectly suited to the dry environment and have become a bit of a nuisance. In the 1920s, workers released thousands of them after the completion of the railroad, and today there are an estimated one million roaming Central Australia. After mounting the enormous animal and marching west against the darkening sky, the low mountains fading into dusk, I listened to the breeze rattling in the dry bushes. The greens and reds and blues slowly blended into night, and I soaked in the cool desert air.

Don't miss our video of Alice Springs to see the West Macs in action!

Disclosure: My DTour of a Lifetime around Australia is sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton.

A Day in Australia's Sacred Center

April 17, 2014 by Kristen in Australia, DTour, Outdoors, Places, Travel

I didn’t need to take off my shoes to enter these temples, though I did cover my head with a scarf to avoid the unforgiving summertime sun. “We’re going to power through the first kilometer,” warned our guide, brushing his horseshoe mustache before adding, “See you in the shade.” Ten minutes later, our group congregated at a platform overlooking a curved opening not unlike a cathedral’s apse, the walls painted with a waterfall that quietly dripped into the pool at its base. We were in the shadow of one of nature’s most grandiose creations.

The famous red monolith in the middle of Australia, known as Uluru, Ayers Rock, or simply “The Rock,” is the kind of ethereal place that people travel the world over to see. A stunning beauty, Uluru is a photographer’s dream, slicing unabashedly out of the otherwise flat desert landscape. It has become a symbol of the Australian Outback, representative of the land of dingoes (some of which eat babies), kangaroos, and ultra-venomous snakes. In short, we couldn’t miss this place.

Five hours seemed a meager pilgrimage, considering the trip from Alice Springs to the remote Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park took 3 days before the highways were built. We set out with Emu Run Tours on a bus with about 30 other eager tourists and two tireless guides, Tick and Mark.

“Over to your right, we’re coming up on a rare sight,” Tick remarked about 3 hours into the drive. The entire bus perked up, prepared for a glimpse. Tick and Mark had spent most of the journey teaching us about this vast territory and its humbling history. “If you look carefully, you’ll see an Australian Rubber Tree, with big black fruit hanging from its branches, distinguishable because it grows without foliage.” We rounded the bend and just then Tick burst into laughter. Rubber tires were strewn about a lone skeleton of a tree near the road. “Gotcha,” he said triumphantly. Cheeky Australians.

The park’s namesake behemoths, Uluru and Kata Tjuta, can be seen for miles in any direction, so it’s no wonder they became important meeting places for the Anangu, the group of aboriginal tribes who’ve lived here for over 30,000 years. Remarkably, the rocks also form the backbones of Anangu Creation Stories: in the absence of a written history, the natives use Uluru and Kata Tjuta as their physical records. Whereas organized religions have holy texts, the Anangu have these rocks. With their decipherable contours, the rocks are used as cues for recounting ancient stories that teach morals, social norms, cultural history, and even survival skills. Considering that the rocks are timeless, more permanent than any written words or man-made reminders of ancient stories, it’s a pretty ingenious system.

Staring at the simple shape of Uluru from afar, you’d never guess that this chunk of rock continues underground for kilometers. In fact, what we can see above ground is really just the tip of the iceberg. If you were to follow its underground geologic path twenty-five kilometers to the west, you’d arrive at Uluru’s lesser-known but just-as-sacred cousin, Kata Tjuta. To this day, the Anangu still use Kata Tjuta for their age-old rituals and ceremonies, during which times it is closed off to the public. A conglomerate sedimentary formation of 36 domes, its name means “many heads,” and it was borne out of the same uplifting process as Uluru some 500 million years ago. Though it’s not as iconic from a distance, it’s breathtakingly beautiful up close.

Red walls rose up on either side of me, plunging into the electric blue of the sky. The wind blew at my back, gently coaxing me deeper into Kata Tjuta’s Walpa Gorge. To my left, I could hear a stream that paralleled the path, hidden from view by bright green trees, bushes, and grasses, all guzzling from the stream’s lifeline of water. We took our time, stopping every few moments to snap photos, stare, and listen. Time slipped further away when we came upon a series of small ponds with tadpoles. They darted around just under the surface, seemingly oblivious to the fact that they were in a desert.

A faint horn sounded, jolting us out of our inquisitive daze. Was that our bus, sounding the final notice before pulling away? Sprinting the whole rest of the way back, we jumped on with smiles of exasperated relief plastered onto our faces, gasping for air. We weren’t even late; apparently the bus horn is a prank the guides pull on the last to board the bus. “Told you they’d be running!” Tick hooted as we took our seats.

Though some affectionately refer to it as such, Uluru is no ordinary rock. Even just saying the word feels like the start of a sacred chant: OOH-loo-roo. Its name has no translation, adding to its mystical allure, and its immense cultural significance really sets it apart from the average mountain. In the days leading up to my Uluru trip, I was sure that I’d want to climb the controversial path that leads to its summit. As a climber, I love to interact with rocks, experiencing them at close range, accepting their challenges. But after all that I’d learned about this sacred place, my mind had changed. The fact that these formations continue to play critical roles in the preservation of the world’s oldest surviving culture warrants, I think, some heavy respect.

Fortunately, the decision was made for us that day, with the climb to the top closed off due to the sweltering February heat. Instead, we followed our guides around parts of Uluru’s base, peering at 17,000-year-old murals, gazing up at temporary waterfalls from the previous day’s rains, and entering alcoves so sacred that, out of respect, photography was prohibited. In the end, it didn’t feel like we’d missed out on anything.

With the sun loosening its grip on the day, temperatures dropped to a much more palatable 90 degrees for our final stop. Even amid the hordes of camera-wielding tourists that were arriving by the busload, it was a serene scene. We sipped on cool champagne and nibbled our picnic dinners as the sun began its spectacular light show. Uluru reflected every color on the spectrum between red and purple. As the sun lowered, features that resembled buttresses cast shadows in stripes across its length until eventually the sun dipped below the horizon, leaving in its wake fluorescent clouds that hovered to the west over the silhouette of Kata Tjuta.

As I gazed out at the impressive figures before they disappeared into the dark, I slipped off my sandals and dug my feet into the warm red sand for one last chance to get closer to this place that is the heart of a continent, the soul of a civilization.

Within Alice Springs, A Desert Wonderland

March 13, 2014 by Loren in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Food, Outdoors, Places, Tips, Travel

I’m convinced Alice Springs is Australia's best kept secret. It’s come a long way from its humble origins as a desert telegraph outpost, without losing touch with its rich native roots. A surprisingly busy hub smack dab in the middle of the country, Alice has made a reputation as being the perfect jumping-off point for exploring the outback. But you don’t need to venture far; there's plenty to do right in town.

The oft-dry Todd River that runs through Alice Springs

We were welcomed with warm greetings (and cookies) at the DoubleTree Alice Springs, which is quite the oasis with its crimson mountain views, a heated outdoor pool, and a resident peacock named Andrew. No wonder it's consistently rated the best accommodation around.

To kick off our introduction to the Red Centre, we paid a visit to Desert Park, which partners with local aborigines to educate visitors about the desert environment and its inhabitants, including the native peoples who lived alongside the unique flora and fauna of Central Australia. Our tour also included a trip to the nocturnal house, home to rare creatures like bilbies and quolls, and a bird show, which afforded us some close encounters with a black kite, bush stone-curlew, and tawny frogmouth, among other beautiful birds.

Doug, our Arrerntye tour guide, walked us through the winding park while teaching us about his ancestors’ culture. His people have lived for millennia in these harsh conditions, moving with the seasons and using smoke farming to encourage plant regeneration. He also shared creation stories (commonly referred to as “dreamtime,” which isn’t a very tactful way to describe their religious beliefs) about how the local mountains came to be, and showed us the complex system of “skin” groups, or tribes, that dictated compatibility for courtship. By the time our tour had finished, we were left feeling a deep sense of respect for this rich culture, the oldest (surviving) in the world.

After grabbing lunch and waiting out the rain at the Watertank Cafe, a hip eatery inside an old plant nursery, we walked to the Alice Springs Reptile Centre. Turns out, Central Australia has more reptiles per square kilometer than anywhere else on earth, which is part of the reason why we decided to pop in for a quick look. But the Centre quickly became one of our favorite visits of the whole trip; all it took was meeting their friendly goanna (a huge lizard) named Ruby, who spends her days wandering around the building and enjoys a good back rub. We loved her, and she features prominently in our video of Alice Springs.

The Reptile Centre is home to the largest collection of reptiles in the Northern Territory, including dozens of "standards" like lizards, turtles, and snakes. They also have a thorny devil, one of the most bizarre-yet-adorable creatures I’ve ever seen, thick-tailed geckos, and legless lizards. You read that correctly: not snakes, mind you, but lizards. With no legs. Our minds = blown. (The difference: lizards have ear holes; snakes do not.)

As if we hadn’t already had enough fun, our visit coincided with one of the centre’s reptile shows, offered three times daily. We got to meet and hold Suzie Q, the 3-year-old olive python. She wasn’t quite as cute as a koala, but she was definitely more cuddly. She clung her smooth body around our torsos and gently repositioned herself to get comfortable. I think in that moment, our lifelong fears of snakes slipped away. Not really but wouldn’t that have been cool?

We also met a blue-tongued skink, which had a thick body and tiny legs. I tried to turn on the charm, but she refused to kiss my cheek. The best encounter was our last, with Beardy, as I liked to call the adorable bearded dragon. The small lizard was spiky yet soft, and happily perched itself on our hands. Kristen and I wanted to take him home.

To get ourselves even more acquainted with Australia’s native animals, we headed to a classic outback saloon called The Overlanders Steakhouse. It is a must for adventurous eaters looking to taste Australian classics like kangaroo, emu, crocodile and camel (OK, that last one isn't native but there are a million of them living there). Not only is the restaurant's food delicious, the rustic decor proudly displays cattle driving relics that reminded us of Hugh Jackman's "Drover" from the movie Australia. Oh, and you get a flag of your country placed on your table so that everybody knows everybody else’s origin (we were happy to be the only Americans). To the happy Norwegian lady who made the rounds that night: we salute you.

With our thoroughly enjoyable and informative day drawing to a close, we realized that unlike other places we visited in Australia, Alice Springs seems to have maintained a deeper connection with its native heritage. It’s a place that has embraced its history and nature, rather than erase it with high-rise buildings. Most of the people we met, locals and tourists alike, seem to have a respectful grasp of the native significance of the surrounding mountains, even knowing some native words for the flora, fauna, and natural landmarks.

A visit to Alice almost certainly means an education in native culture and history, which might be why it is such an enchanting place. We only experienced a fraction of what Alice has to offer, but it felt more meaningful than anywhere else in the country. Even though I’m keen on spreading the word, I could see why some might want to keep it a secret.

If you go:

The DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Alice Springs has a super friendly and helpful staff, plus one of the town's best restaurants, Hanuman, in the lobby. Be sure to say hello to Andrew the Peacock, but don't let him get too close to your cookies!

Alice Springs Desert Park is open from 7:30am to 6pm daily, with an entry fee of $25 per adult. Budget at least a couple of hours to explore the grounds and the nocturnal house. Don't miss the Wild Bird Show, held at 10am and 3:30pm at the nature theater.

Alice Springs Reptile Centre is open from 9:30am to 5pm daily, with an entry fee of $16 per adult. Budget at least an hour and a half. Don't miss the reptile show, at 11am, 1pm, and 3:30pm, for an opportunity see some of these amazing creatures up close. Who knows? You might not be that afraid of snakes after all.

The Watertank Cafe is a great place to grab lunch and recharge, with delicious toasted wraps, free wifi, and playful decor (it used to be a plant nursery, so there's plenty of greenery). Even though it's a bit off the beaten path, it's well worth the trip. Open from 9am to 3pm (2:30pm on Sundays).

The Overlanders Steakhouse is a lively spot to grab a drink and sample some classic outback fare. Definitely get the sampler. If you're lucky, you might even catch a staff wobbleboard show. Or just ask for a demonstration.

Disclosure: I'm traveling Australia for my DTour of a Lifetime sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton.

Video: Welcome To The Outback

March 10, 2014 by Loren in Australia, DTour, Travel, Videos

You can't get any more classic-Australian than with a trip to Alice Springs. Our four busy days included touring the Desert Park with Doug, holding lizards and snakes at the Reptile Centre, visiting Uluru and Kata Tjuta, riding camels at Pyndan Camel Tracks, and swimming in waterholes at the West MacDonnell Ranges. Who knew the desert has so much to offer?

Disclosure: My Australia DTour is sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton.