Tourists in our hometown: Washington, DC

October 14, 2014 by Loren in Dining Out, North America, Places, Travel

Normally, I like traveling to new places, getting a taste of a different culture perhaps, or stepping into someone else's shoes. So when I found out that I had won another free trip, this time to Washington, DC, I couldn't help but laugh a little. DC isn't in any way new to Kristen and I: we both grew up in Northern Virginia, and then after college we lived just outside the city for several more years. But still, I couldn't turn down free airfare for two, a king-sized bed at the DoubleTree by Hilton, and four nights in a central DC location.

No matter how well you think you know a city, there is always more to discover. They're in a constant state of change. Rising chefs open new restaurants, galleries cycle through new exhibits, neighborhoods are revitalized. I was excited to put myself in the shoes of a tourist in a city I thought I had already figured out. What haven't I done here? Where haven't I been? My goal: do as many new things as I could think of, while minimizing my exposure to the familiar.

In true tourist fashion, we were without a car and completely reliant upon public transportation. Instead of taking the metro system to get around, we opted for the recently-installed Capital Bikeshare, which has tons of convenient locations all over the city. Riding right in the thick of it above ground, all the while getting exercise, was refreshing and arguably more fun than the alternatives. We rode all over town, visiting neighborhoods I'd never been to before, including the up-and-coming Southeast Waterfront. It was here, over numerous beers at the impressive new microbrewery Bluejacket, that I realized how much the city was changing and that visiting DC (or any city, for that matter) would never get old.

My long list of restaurants, ranging from classic to brand new, has continued growing even after we moved away from DC; this trip gave me the chance to start crossing them off. We finally popped into Old Ebbitt Grill, the city's oldest saloon and a place where 19th century presidents would go for a drink (it's a short walk from the White House). Newer ones like DGS Delicatessen, Daikaya, Le Diplomate and Doi Moi were walkable from our hotel and delivered memorable meals. One of the eateries high on our list was a new one we'd been hearing about called Rose's Luxury on Barracks Row. We ordered most of the menu with Kristen's parents and were floored at just about everything: the food, the service, and the space itself. It was pretty cool when a couple days later Bon Appetit named it the best new restaurant in the country. (Note: If you go, get in line before 4:45pm.)

A few times, though, we did slip back into our old ways. We couldn't help taking a look at the National Portrait Gallery's American Cool exhibit, and when we rode too close to the National Gallery of Art we were drawn in like bugs to a lightbulb to check out new exhibits for Wyeth, Cassatt and Degas. We didn't feel guilty at all wandering through part of their permanent collection, for old time's sake.

At the end of our stay, we ventured into rural Virginia to The Inn at Little Washington for our best anniversary dinner to date. Consistently rated as the top restaurant in the DC area, the Inn (which also has 25 rooms) serves up world-class, seasonal tasting menus that are surprising, delightful, and super duper tasty. We were by far the youngest patrons in the restaurant, probably owing to how rough it is on the budget, but we relished every bite throughout our four-hour meal.

By staying in a hotel and biking around (sometimes aimlessly), we were able to see the city from an outsider's perspective. Instead of a guidebook, we were armed with a personal list of things-to-do, and we managed to go to about 15 different restaurants, bars, museums, monuments and parks that we'd never seen before. Plus, we got to meet up with lots of friends and family along the way. It turns out, being a tourist in your hometown can be just as exciting as being a tourist elsewhere.

A sampling of paper mementos from the Aussie restaurants we loved

Where to Eat in Australia

August 05, 2014 by Kristen in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Food, News, Places, Travel

Australia has something for every palate, whether you’re an adventurous eater or a comfort seeker, a fine dining guru or a streetfood junkie. But with so many food options at hand, making the decision of where to eat can be daunting. Lucky for you, we've gone and done all the (delicious) work. So here is the list, in order, of our top 10 meals Down Under. Happy dining!

10. Little Creatures, Melbourne, Fitzroy

Walking into this warehouse-turned-eatery in Melbourne’s hippest neighborhood, it’s hard not to fall instantly in love. An impossibly expansive dining room, smart industrial-chic decor (we loved the palette tabletops and beer bottle chandeliers), and a wall of windows looking out to the street make this place a perfect spot to sit and ponder your next moves over a flight of their craft beers and delicious pizza.

9. Grill'd Healthy Burgers, Sydney, Darlinghurst

A glowing example of how to do fast food right, Grill’d caught our eye for its food philosophy, serving up the highest-quality local ingredients for their burgers. We absolutely loved the Darlinghurst location, with its vertical subway tiles and bold wall graphics. Since this chain has hit it big, they’re sprouting up locations all across Australia, so get out there and find one near you. We devoured the Baa Baa Burger (local grass-fed lamb, avocado, cheese, spicy mayo, lettuce, and tomato on a sourdough roll), which we would order again and again and again.

8. Nina's Ploy Thai, Sydney, North Bondi

Tucked on a side road just off the main drag in Bondi, this restaurant is as unassuming as they come: white walls and pink tables topped with tissue dispensers make it clear that this is a no-frills kind of place that is well off the tourist map. The hand-written Chef Suggestion chalkboard caught our eye as we were seated, so we ordered two dishes from it: drunk noodles and duck noodle soup. All it took was a whiff of our quickly delivered meal for us to realize why this restaurant is a favorite of locals: it’s totally authentic.

Duck Noodle Soup at Nina’s Ploy Thai in Sydney

7. Overlanders Steakhouse, Alice Springs

This is the kind of place Outback Steakhouse is trying to emulate. Upon walking in, patrons are instantly transported back in time to Central Australia’s cattle driving cowboy days, with saddles lining the rafters and livestock hides displaying the region’s various branding logos. This is a classic outback saloon, serving up standard grilled proteins like beef and chicken, along with Aussie delicacies like kangaroo, emu, camel and crocodile. Get a flag of your country placed on your table and then order the sampler to try it all. Tip: go in the high season and be treated to a wobbleboard show.

6. Magic Wok, Darwin, CBD

Normally, create-your-own dish places seem more gimmicky than about the food. But when we heard about a place described as both an “experience” and “institution” on more than one occasion, we ditched our preconceptions. Where else can you get customized wok stir-fries with obscure Australian ingredients? A friendly waitress gives newcomers a rundown, and then the fun begins: assemble a tray of veggies and meats like crocodile, kangaroo, emu, camel and even horse; then, pick your sauces and pass it into the fiery kitchen. It turns out delicious no matter what you pick. Just don’t get too ambitious: you pay based on how much your wok weighs.

5. Mondo Organics, Brisbane, West End

Set in a quiet Brisbane neighborhood, this open-aire restaurant absolutely floored us. Australia’s first certified organic restaurant, Mondo Organics opened in 2000 and has built a name for itself using ingredients that, along with its namesake, are local, sustainable, and seasonal. The elegant-yet-casual interior is warm and inviting, with an upscale beachy feel owing to the large windows with wooden shutters. We dined on two home run dishes: pork belly and slow-roasted pork shoulder. Next time we’re in town, we’ll enroll in one of their cooking classes!

4. Parap Market, Darwin, Parap Village

A walk around the food vendors at the Parap Saturday market in Darwin is a trip. Passing by the dragon fruits, the bubbling curries, and fiery woks, you may begin to wonder if you somehow teleported to Southeast Asia. This buzzing market scene is exactly the stuff of our travel wishlists, and part of the reason why Darwin is known as the market capital of Australia. Try the laksa, a spicy Indonesian coconut noodle soup, by hopping into the line for Mary’s (it’s the longest one). Guaranteed bliss.

Laksa, an Indonesian curry soup — Laksa at Parap Market

3. PUBLIC, Brisbane, CBD

A short walk from the Queen Street Mall, this sophisticated yet casual fine dining spot in the heart of the Central Business District is sure to wow. Truth be told, we found this place on a chance recommendation from a tweeting stranger based out of Brisbane. But we would keep coming back to this beautiful restaurant for the craft cocktails, friendly servers and clever menu. Anyone who’s heard of Kentucky-Fried Chicken must try the KFD (D as in Duck), for a poultry revelation. Our most memorable dish? Hands down, the “can o’ worms:” fried mealworms with bean sprouts tossed in soy sauce, served in a can and eaten ever-so-elegantly with chopsticks. Crunchy, salty and delicious!

2. MoVida Aqui, Melbourne, CBD

We thank the dining gods (and Frank Camorra, executive chef) for making MoVida more accessible, with restaurants scattered across Melbourne and Sydney. The bright and airy Aqui location is chic and adorable, with its smart design touches like bright plastic crates hanging over the bar and hand-drawn cartoonish illustrations of octopus and other ingredients, which give the otherwise ultra-modern space a playful touch. Start with the out-of-this-world delicious anchoa tapas: house-made crackers topped with anchovies and smoked tomato sorbet. Even after sharing three more spectacular courses (wallaby tartare, calamari sandwich, and braised beef), we were sure to save room for the flan, which was silky perfection.

1. Hanuman, Darwin, CBD

Neon purples, pinks and blues illuminate the dining room, a testament to the unique experience Hanuman is sure to offer every diner. Our interest was piqued as soon as we heard the food described as Thai-Indian, which sounded like a win-win to us. Eager to sample as much as possible, we ordered what seemed like the whole menu: butter chicken, coconut prawns, beef massaman and spicy eggplant, along with the mind-blowing must-try signature dish: lightly steamed oysters with lemongrass, basil, ginger, chili and fresh coriander, served in little clay pots. The unique bold flavors won our tastebuds over, but our above-and-beyond server, who helped us navigate the menu to create such a memorable meal, won our hearts.

We know there are many more amazing meals out there, so if you've been to Australia, where's your favorite place to eat? Let us know in the comments!

Channeling My Inner Crocodile Dundee

April 25, 2014 by Loren in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Food, Places, Travel

On the twentieth and final day of my free (thanks DoubleTree by Hilton) trip around Australia, I found myself underwater and face-to-face with a deadly, 1,700-pound beast. Submerged in the ominously named Cage of Death, I was staring at the eyeball of Chopper, a 5.5-meter long, 80-something-year-old saltwater crocodile who lives in Darwin, Australia. Thankfully there was thick plexiglass between us, because he was hungry.

I was sent to the Crocosaurus Cove by DoubleTree by Hilton with an all-expenses paid visit. Even though it’s located in the heart of a city, upon walking through its doors, all of the nearby restaurants and bars suddenly seemed worlds away. There were massive crocs everywhere, including a movie star named Bert from the Crocodile Dundee movie.

To help set the mood, someone promptly thrust a baby croc into my hands. She was smooth and lightweight, probably about the length of my arm. With a rubber band around her little snout, I felt her surprising strength between my hands as she writhed for freedom. And this was just a baby. I could only imagine how powerful an adult must be.

From my clear, underwater cage, I watched the full-grown male inch over, calmly eyeing me with suspicion. When a bite of meat lured him above, he sprang up and chomped down hard with his massive teeth. Soon after, as I got hoisted out of the aquarium, he snapped his formidable jaws at my feet. He obviously had an appetite, and I doubted the taste of human flesh was a stranger to his palate.

After toweling off and changing back into my clothes, my expert guide led to me to a different saltie’s tank. Perched safely up above his habitat, a piece of beef heart dangling from my fishing pole, I waved meat in front of the giant beast’s head. When he felt like exerting an effort, up he sprang, chomping down hard with his massive teeth. Turns out, these deadly beasts have the strongest bite ever recorded in the animal kingdom. They lie and wait in rivers and near beaches, and when an animal ventures too close, their jaws take over. For especially strong opponents, they’ll clamp down tight and roll over and over until their prey is immobilized.

While Crocosaurus Cove specializes in a controlled danger, they also have a huge fish tank and feeding show, and an Australian reptile exhibit. Inside the darkened exhibit filled with lit-up terrariums, we got to hold (another) bearded dragon and blue-tongued skink, and for the first time ever we watched a python eat a rat whole, a process which took about 20 minutes start-to-finish. And no, it wasn’t behind glass - it was right on the floor in front of us.

We were getting hungry too, so with crocodiles still on our minds, we ventured a few blocks away to a unique hole-in-the-wall restaurant called Magic Wok, which offers a wide assortment of animal protein, salties included. We each tonged veggies and meats (like croc, kangaroo and emu) onto our trays, selected sauce and noodle cards, and handed them into the kitchen window. The cooks immediately went to work, using their hands and body weight to engage the ingredients in a kind of circular dance in and above the big, steaming woks. I’m almost certain you can’t go wrong at this place. Both of our random concoctions were absolutely delicious.

Full and happy, we started back to our hotel down the brightly-lit street. I couldn’t believe this was the final day of our whirlwind DTour around Australia. What a wild ride it was. It seemed appropriate to be ending it with a full immersion of all things crocodile. We had seen this country’s most venomous snakes, a deadly box jellyfish, and a huge cassowary capable of tearing open your chest. But the saltwater crocodile is the largest predator of the bunch. And aren’t you supposed to go big and then go home?

Disclosure: My epic Australian DTour of a Lifetime was sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton, but have no fear: what I blog about is totally up to me. Thanks DoubleTree, I had a blast!

Cheap Day, Rich Culture in Darwin

April 24, 2014 by Loren in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Food, Places, Travel

I admit it; when I’m traveling and see something billed as “free,” my ears perk up. The air travel, lodging, and food cost a lot already, so balancing out my expenses makes sense. Some days are expensive, like scuba on the reef, and some aren’t, like our cheap yet enriching day in Darwin, which included a no-expense visit to the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory.

It was our first full day in the tropical capital of the NT, which is blessed with pristine beaches, barramundi-rich waters, and access to a UNESCO World Heritage-listed park. Located on the far northern coast, or “Top End,” of Australia, Darwin is so remote that for locals it’s closer and cheaper to fly to Bali than to Australia’s big southern cities. In fact, Pan-Asian food and culture have exerted a great influence here, which is probably why the city is known as the Market Capital of Australia. Since it was Saturday, there was no question that our day would start at Darwin's most famous weekend market.

At the Parap Market, the specialty is laksa, a spicy coconut curry noodle soup that hails from Southeast Asia. We hopped aboard a free shuttle just outside the hotel and soon arrived at the sprawling food haven dominating a bustling square. Armed with an insider tip for the best vendor, we wandered around the maze looking for “Mary.” With hardly any signage to guide us, we decided to just stand in the longest line we could find. When we finally got to the front and ordered, we were relieved to discover it was indeed Mary. The soup was out-of-control delicious.

After ordering iced coffees from a hip-looking cart, we took a city bus (not free but cheap and reliable!) to the museum/art gallery, where we were immediately pulled into the aboriginal art and history exhibit laid out before us. Native Australians, who represent the oldest surviving culture in the world, have been making art across the continent for at least 60,000 years. The artwork, with its characteristic natural ochre pigments and thousands of meticulous dots and lines, captivated us for way longer than we had planned.

Next, we ventured into the Cyclone Tracy exhibit, an eerie look back at the 1974 storm that just about leveled the entire city late on Christmas Eve. There are bone-chilling news broadcasts, ghostly replicas of living rooms, and a pitch black cylindrical room designed to transport you to that frightening night, immersing visitors in the sounds and sensations of loud wind and crashing objects. I lasted about ten seconds. It was comforting to later learn that the hotel in which we were staying, the DoubleTree by Hilton Darwin, was the city’s tallest building left standing in Tracy’s aftermath.

DoubleTree by Hilton Darwin, before and after Cyclone Tracy

Besides the danger of cyclones, Darwinians also have to watch out for giant saltwater crocodiles that inhabit beaches and freshwater rivers. One particularly nasty croc that spent years terrorizing local fishermen in the 1970s eventually became the museum's claim to fame, a 5.1-meter-long taxidermied specimen affectionately dubbed "Sweetheart."

If giant reptiles aren’t your thing, the hundreds of other stuffed or preserved species on exhibit are equally amazing. With a collection that overflows with unusual Australian fish, birds, insects, reptiles and mammals, the Transformations exhibit proves that evolution, especially on this continent, is the craziest thing ever. I’m sure Charles Darwin would be proud to know that not only is there an excellent museum exhibiting evolution at its finest/strangest, but that it’s located in a city named after him.

One of the most sobering creatures on display is a surprisingly large box jellyfish. Between the months of October through May, these “stingers” effectively close the beaches in Northern Australia. Their tentacles are so venomous, they can kill an adult human in 2 to 3 minutes, making them one of the deadliest animals on Earth. If you’ve seen the movie 7 Pounds, you may remember one making an appearance.

The box jellyfish is the deadliest known animal on Earth.

When the museum started to close, we lingered as long as possible before getting kicked out. Yes, the free air-con was a welcome refuge from the humid tropical summer outside, but even more, the place was fascinating in every corner, and we had only just scratched the surface. We ran to catch the city bus back to town, and got confused when the driver turned our money away. Apparently, our $3 tickets were good for three hours, and we still had ten minutes to spare.

Now’s probably a good time to remind you that I was in Australia practically for free anyway, with my DTour trip being sponsored and partially planned by DoubleTree by Hilton. They covered my airfare, lodging and a handful of excursions (not for Kristen). But even though I was practically paid to go to Australia, I still couldn’t turn down a free museum - being from DC, it's in my blood. Looking back, it’s hard to believe it was our cheapest day in Australia, considering it was so culturally rich with food, art, and history. A great reminder that, sometimes, the best experiences needn't cost a thing.

If you go:

Parap Village Market is open from 8am to 2pm on Saturdays. Go hungry and be sure to find the longest laksa line. Don't forget sunscreen! To get there from CBD, you can take a bus directly to the market - the most direct line is the 4 or 6. Cost is $3, and save your ticket, because it's good for three hours. There's also a free shuttle that picks up from major hotels - ask at your concierge.

Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory is open from 9am to 5pm on weekdays, 10am to 5pm weekends. Entry is FREE! The permanent exhibits, including Indigenous Art, Cyclone Tracy, and Transformations, are fantastic. To get here, ride the 4 or 6 bus to Conacher Street.

The Doubletree by Hilton Hotel Darwin sits on the picturesque Esplanade, the perfect jumping-off point for exploring the CBD or hopping on a bus to surrounding neighborhoods. Be sure to catch the sunset from your balcony if you've got Esplanade views.

Disclosure: My Australian DTour adventure is sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton, but don't worry, what I choose to write about is all up to me.

Within Alice Springs, A Desert Wonderland

March 13, 2014 by Loren in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Food, Outdoors, Places, Tips, Travel

I’m convinced Alice Springs is Australia's best kept secret. It’s come a long way from its humble origins as a desert telegraph outpost, without losing touch with its rich native roots. A surprisingly busy hub smack dab in the middle of the country, Alice has made a reputation as being the perfect jumping-off point for exploring the outback. But you don’t need to venture far; there's plenty to do right in town.

The oft-dry Todd River that runs through Alice Springs

We were welcomed with warm greetings (and cookies) at the DoubleTree Alice Springs, which is quite the oasis with its crimson mountain views, a heated outdoor pool, and a resident peacock named Andrew. No wonder it's consistently rated the best accommodation around.

To kick off our introduction to the Red Centre, we paid a visit to Desert Park, which partners with local aborigines to educate visitors about the desert environment and its inhabitants, including the native peoples who lived alongside the unique flora and fauna of Central Australia. Our tour also included a trip to the nocturnal house, home to rare creatures like bilbies and quolls, and a bird show, which afforded us some close encounters with a black kite, bush stone-curlew, and tawny frogmouth, among other beautiful birds.

Doug, our Arrerntye tour guide, walked us through the winding park while teaching us about his ancestors’ culture. His people have lived for millennia in these harsh conditions, moving with the seasons and using smoke farming to encourage plant regeneration. He also shared creation stories (commonly referred to as “dreamtime,” which isn’t a very tactful way to describe their religious beliefs) about how the local mountains came to be, and showed us the complex system of “skin” groups, or tribes, that dictated compatibility for courtship. By the time our tour had finished, we were left feeling a deep sense of respect for this rich culture, the oldest (surviving) in the world.

After grabbing lunch and waiting out the rain at the Watertank Cafe, a hip eatery inside an old plant nursery, we walked to the Alice Springs Reptile Centre. Turns out, Central Australia has more reptiles per square kilometer than anywhere else on earth, which is part of the reason why we decided to pop in for a quick look. But the Centre quickly became one of our favorite visits of the whole trip; all it took was meeting their friendly goanna (a huge lizard) named Ruby, who spends her days wandering around the building and enjoys a good back rub. We loved her, and she features prominently in our video of Alice Springs.

The Reptile Centre is home to the largest collection of reptiles in the Northern Territory, including dozens of "standards" like lizards, turtles, and snakes. They also have a thorny devil, one of the most bizarre-yet-adorable creatures I’ve ever seen, thick-tailed geckos, and legless lizards. You read that correctly: not snakes, mind you, but lizards. With no legs. Our minds = blown. (The difference: lizards have ear holes; snakes do not.)

As if we hadn’t already had enough fun, our visit coincided with one of the centre’s reptile shows, offered three times daily. We got to meet and hold Suzie Q, the 3-year-old olive python. She wasn’t quite as cute as a koala, but she was definitely more cuddly. She clung her smooth body around our torsos and gently repositioned herself to get comfortable. I think in that moment, our lifelong fears of snakes slipped away. Not really but wouldn’t that have been cool?

We also met a blue-tongued skink, which had a thick body and tiny legs. I tried to turn on the charm, but she refused to kiss my cheek. The best encounter was our last, with Beardy, as I liked to call the adorable bearded dragon. The small lizard was spiky yet soft, and happily perched itself on our hands. Kristen and I wanted to take him home.

To get ourselves even more acquainted with Australia’s native animals, we headed to a classic outback saloon called The Overlanders Steakhouse. It is a must for adventurous eaters looking to taste Australian classics like kangaroo, emu, crocodile and camel (OK, that last one isn't native but there are a million of them living there). Not only is the restaurant's food delicious, the rustic decor proudly displays cattle driving relics that reminded us of Hugh Jackman's "Drover" from the movie Australia. Oh, and you get a flag of your country placed on your table so that everybody knows everybody else’s origin (we were happy to be the only Americans). To the happy Norwegian lady who made the rounds that night: we salute you.

With our thoroughly enjoyable and informative day drawing to a close, we realized that unlike other places we visited in Australia, Alice Springs seems to have maintained a deeper connection with its native heritage. It’s a place that has embraced its history and nature, rather than erase it with high-rise buildings. Most of the people we met, locals and tourists alike, seem to have a respectful grasp of the native significance of the surrounding mountains, even knowing some native words for the flora, fauna, and natural landmarks.

A visit to Alice almost certainly means an education in native culture and history, which might be why it is such an enchanting place. We only experienced a fraction of what Alice has to offer, but it felt more meaningful than anywhere else in the country. Even though I’m keen on spreading the word, I could see why some might want to keep it a secret.

If you go:

The DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Alice Springs has a super friendly and helpful staff, plus one of the town's best restaurants, Hanuman, in the lobby. Be sure to say hello to Andrew the Peacock, but don't let him get too close to your cookies!

Alice Springs Desert Park is open from 7:30am to 6pm daily, with an entry fee of $25 per adult. Budget at least a couple of hours to explore the grounds and the nocturnal house. Don't miss the Wild Bird Show, held at 10am and 3:30pm at the nature theater.

Alice Springs Reptile Centre is open from 9:30am to 5pm daily, with an entry fee of $16 per adult. Budget at least an hour and a half. Don't miss the reptile show, at 11am, 1pm, and 3:30pm, for an opportunity see some of these amazing creatures up close. Who knows? You might not be that afraid of snakes after all.

The Watertank Cafe is a great place to grab lunch and recharge, with delicious toasted wraps, free wifi, and playful decor (it used to be a plant nursery, so there's plenty of greenery). Even though it's a bit off the beaten path, it's well worth the trip. Open from 9am to 3pm (2:30pm on Sundays).

The Overlanders Steakhouse is a lively spot to grab a drink and sample some classic outback fare. Definitely get the sampler. If you're lucky, you might even catch a staff wobbleboard show. Or just ask for a demonstration.

Disclosure: I'm traveling Australia for my DTour of a Lifetime sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton.

Bondi Icebergs, Or How I Almost Lost My Wedding Ring

January 29, 2014 by Loren in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Outdoors, Travel

Judging by the fact that two different locals asked us how we found it, I’m guessing the Bondi Icebergs Swimming Club is somewhat of a hidden gem. At $5.50AU per adult for a scenic oceanside swim, I’d say it’s a steal. Since 1929, the saltwater pool has given people the chance to swim laps (sans-sharks) by the sea, with crashing waves spilling in and seagulls flying overhead. The bar upstairs, perfect for a glass of wine and breathtaking view after a swim, doesn’t hurt either.

Unfortunately for us, the weather in Sydney had been unseasonably chilly for mid-summer, even moreso at Bondi Beach where the wind was blowing unforgivingly. After watching the swimmers for several minutes and seriously contemplating a hot coffee instead, we decided that leaving without a dip would be a regrettable choice. So we paid the small fee, changed into our swimsuits, and braved the chilly turquoise waters.

It really wasn’t all that cold once you got in and moved around, but my fingers didn’t get the memo. Within a couple of minutes, my wedding band abruptly slipped off (for the first time ever) and sank. Immediately, I stopped and flagged down a nearby lap-swimmer and asked if he could find my ring. His eyes weren’t too good, he told me, but he tried briefly anyway, returning empty-handed. Surrendering his goggles, Kristen dove down and within her first breath, surprised both of us and found it no time (see her face in the video: genuine disbelief upon surfacing). Good thing too, because if I'd lost it, she would’ve had a fit.

Cheers to this local who lent us his goggles:

During our post-swim de-stressing sauna session, we chatted with an expat from Tucson who has lived in Sydney for 8 years (spoiler alert: he loves it). He recommended Nina’s Ploy Thai for dinner, so we took his advice and, after a short walk down the beach, found the BYO hole-in-the-wall restaurant filled with decidedly Australian locals. The bare, white walls and simple tablescapes (read: a box of tissues) made us feel right at home. We ordered duck noodle soup and drunk noodles, and savored every mouth-watering bite.

To round out our Bondi bonding time, we strolled over to Gelato Messina, a top-notch cold treat destination that our goggle lender had raved to us about. The open-air “bar” felt like a movie premiere, with excited fans queueing up and spilling onto the sidewalk. Our espresso/chocolate and pear/rhubarb scoops were decadent and delicious. As we walked off in search of a bus back to our hotel, very full and very happy, we had absolutely zero regrets.

Disclosure: Even though I'm traveling in Australia on behalf of DoubleTree by Hilton for my DTour of a Lifetime, what I write about is up to me.

Sydney's (Very) Scenic Walk to Manly

January 28, 2014 by Loren in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, Outdoors, Travel

It’s about the journey… not the destination.

Sure, you could take the ferry to Manly, a funky upscale surftown northeast of Sydney. Or, you could go at your own pace on the four-hour Manly Scenic Walkway (MSW). The first step for us was a bus ride about 30 minutes or so from city center, darting over the landmark Harbour Bridge with quick peeks at the tips of the famed Opera House and charming, hilly neighborhoods. At the second bridge, called the Spit, we hopped off (or, as they say here, “alighted” - new word for us) to let our feet do the rest of the job.

The MSW is a 9.5km path that winds along the varied coastline of the middle and north harbour between Spit Bridge and its namesake peninsular suburb (stay tuned for jokes about manliness), cutting right through the Sydney Harbour National Park. The walk showcases some of the city's best outdoorsy assets, including beaches, forests, rock formations, a waterfall, and even some wild animals.

Our walk began in lush tropical greenery, with large leaves encroaching on the path and small lizards eyeing us nervously as we brushed by. They seemed like a cross between iguanas and bearded dragons; we later found out they’re basically just that, called Eastern Water Dragons. With each sighting, the lizards got bigger and bigger. A sudden wave of fear washed over us. “Oh crap,” we thought, “We’re hiking in Australia, where everything can kill us.” But the anxiety soon subsided and we continued on, only slightly weary of impending doom from poisonous creatures.

Happy families played at the beaches and friendly locals passed us on the trail with warm smiles and waves. Weaving in and out of coves, climbing up and down wooden steps, and catching spectacular views was the standard. During the final stretch, we even stole glimpses of a few kookaburras (iconic Australian birds), who called attention to themselves with their monkey-like cackling.

Arriving in Manly brought on a change of scenery: hordes of tourists and locals (Manly men and women), most in swimsuits and flip-flops. Around town we saw a Manly Italian restaurant, Manly salon, and even a Manly pharmacy (their number-one seller is, I presume, testosterone). Wet-suited surfers were out catching waves and strutting their Manly-ness.

We were famished, so we bee-lined through the crowded esplanade and right into the first oceanside eatery serving fish and chips. The Fish Shack, with its chalkboard signage and hand-painted wall art, was proud to serve only sustainably-caught seafood, so we were immediately on-board. We opted for local Manly beers and the national specialty of barramundi - Kristen’s beer-battered and fried, mine grilled (perhaps not the Manly-est of choices). After a four-hour hike, it was exactly what we needed.

The return ferry back to Sydney took much less time than our exhausting walk, but it was a perfect way to end the day. We sat lazily and shuttled past the same cliffs and coves that we had laboriously trekked through hours earlier, catching a much different perspective of the beautiful bay. Further on, our new and improved view of the Sydney Opera House was a welcome reward for a long day of hard work.

Disclosure: I'm traveling on a #DTour in Australia on behalf of DoubleTree by Hilton, but it's totally cool because I still do and write about the things that interest me. Hope you enjoy it!

Sydney Spotlight: Hyde Park & Darlinghurst

January 24, 2014 by Loren in Australia, Dining Out, DTour, News, Travel

One day in Sydney, and we're already in love.

After a slight visa mishap at LAX followed by a surprisingly restful 14-hour flight across the Pacific, we were whisked away from the airport in a black BMW, and delivered to the stunning Hilton Sydney in the Central Business District. At the reception desk, it was hard not to stare up into the ceiling, mouth agape, stealing looks at the giant wire sculpture that dominates the atrium (to us it began to resemble campfire smoke billowing upwards). Our slightly disheveled travel attire seemed out of place in the shiny lobby, so we took advantage of my new HHonors Gold Member status and retreated to the 36th floor executive lounge to wait for our room. By 11am, our suite was ready.

As a home base in Sydney, the Hilton couldn’t be any better situated. It’s in the heart of city center, surrounded by shopping options, a block from the gorgeous Hyde Park, and a short walk to nearly everything. Once we were settled and refreshed, we stepped out through big revolving doors (they spin the other direction!) on a mission for the one thing I really needed: a haircut. My enormous winter beard was in need of some taming and, after all, it’s summer here.

A 15-minute stroll through the park landed us in hip Darlinghurst, a quiet neighborhood by day full of young, fit hipsters, cafes and bars, and interesting street art. With its tree-lined streets and diverse architecture, Darlinghurst seems to be the perfect city neighborhood.

Walking into Sedition, a hole-in-the-wall barbershop, feels a little overwhelming at first. The two-seat shop is filled floor to ceiling with loud, playful, anti-establishment work: giant papier mache phalluses plastered with repeated words (a series of "financial" works called his "Stimulus Package") looms over the interior doorway; plastic zip-tie flowers with colorful plastic petals; canvases of colored duct tape. It's as much an artist's studio as it is a barbershop.

Sedition Barbershop and the barber himself, Mick

Mick, the owner/barber/artist was quiet and laid-back, with bright, thoughtful eyes and quick hands. Music pulsed through the shop. With minimal direction, he sculpted my winter shag into something a bit more suitable for summertime. It was truly the best cut I've had in years.

Newly liberated from my beard, which had grown a bit unwieldy and had hampered my eating for 3 months, I was excited to sink my teeth into a good burger. So when we stumbled into Grill'd, a local grass-fed burger chain, demonstrating that fast food can be done locally, sustainably, and ethically, it felt as if the stars had aligned. We quickly ordered a Baa Baa Burger to split: lamb, avocado, cheese, spicy mayo, lettuce, tomato. Served on a sourdough roll (sandwich-style), it hit the spot bigtime.

Next up, drinks. We ventured back toward a place we had passed earlier and plopped down on some stools at Pocket Bar, a cozy hipster-saloon with plenty of character: large pop art painted onto the walls; sheet music plastered along the ceiling; deep-set bookcases supporting the glass-top shadowbox bar; knick knacks worthy of any vintage consignment store lining every inch of every shelf. Being the only patrons at 4:30 in the afternoon, we had the chance to chat up both bartenders while sipping cocktails. The first one asked if we were meth heads after hearing we were from New Mexico (Breaking Bad fan). The second gave us helpful tips about avoiding death in Australia (which is everywhere). And we even got a couple on-the-house drinks.

Before leaving the neighborhood, we decided to grab a quick bite at Red Lantern, owned by Luke Nguyen, an Australian-Vietnamese celebrity chef we have watched on Cooking Channel. The Bun Thit, lemongrass pork and herbs you roll up in lettuce and eat with your hands, was rather expensive for what it is, but also the best Vietnamese food we’ve eaten since Hanoi.

By that time, the jet lag was catching up with us and we reluctantly started back to the hotel. Walking back through Hyde park at sundown had a different feel, so we lingered. Street performers, skateboarders, tourists and Sydneysiders alike were enjoying the mild summer evening among the tall trees. People were even lined up for the Stonehenge moonbounce, part of the ongoing Sydney Festival. Huge bats flew overhead. Huge, like the size of our cat, with wings. Sitting on a bench until night officially fell, we realized that Sydney already held us in its spell. We could get used to this.

Take a look at our first day in Sydney in action:

Disclosure: I am traveling in Australia on behalf of DoubleTree by Hilton, but no worries, they just booked my airfare and hotels; what I do and what I write about is all me.

Bacon Fest: Field Day for Foodies

November 16, 2013 by Kristen in Dining Out, Events, Food

“Chew, Chew, Swallow!” The crowd chanted louder and louder as they rose to their feet in anticipation, camera phones recording. Two of the contestants were nearly finished with their plates, which only a couple of minutes earlier held a sampling of the day’s bites. It was the same food that was in all of our stomachs.

We’d spent that unseasonably warm November day among thousands of fellow food lovers, gathered in the sun on the grassy fields that surround Albuquerque’s Balloon Museum. It was the first inaugural Southwest Bacon Fest, and the grounds were engulfed with salty, sweet, and smoky aromas, constant reminders of the day’s star ingredient. Like all of the other attendees, we’d set out to try as many of the day’s dishes as possible.

Enter friendly competitiveness, the undeniable undertone of food festivals. Just like sports, there are elements of strategy, resolve, and stamina. The goal is to taste as much as possible before a) time runs out, or b) you can’t fit anything else in your stomach.

Our plan of attack: walk among the crowds, surveying the lines, peeking at the range of offerings. Bacon doughnuts, bacon waffles, bacon coffee, bacon brownies, bacon sliders, bacon hot dogs, and bacon ice cream, to name a few. Realization set in that we’d miscalculated even before arriving: why had we eaten breakfast at home? Rookie mistake. Pushing that memory aside, we hopped in line, agreed to share everything, and readied ourselves for breakfast #2 (and #3, and #4...).

By the third queue, our strategy had evolved. Divide and conquer, as they say. Loren headed off in search of thirst-quenching beers, while I ended up at the end of a particularly long string of people, in hopes of trying the most basic dish being served: bacon on a stick. Half an hour into the wait, I was sandwiched in line between Mr. Neck Tattoos and Mr. Plaid Shirt Grandpa. On any other given day, we would’ve been scattered across the city in our respective bubbles. But that day, with beloved bacon as our mutual focus, our differences faded into the background. We descended into discussion, suggesting must-taste dishes and sharing the surprising flavors we’d encountered so far. Food has an amazing ability to bring people together. Plus, waiting in long lines creates a sense of camaraderie.

After I’d successfully retrieved my bacon skewer slathered in sweet chili sauce, my picnic table neighbor’s eyes fixated on the stick, eyebrows lifting. “Now that looks good. Where’d you get it?” he asked, evidently on the hunt for his next dish. I pointed, still chewing, then added, “I waited in line for over an hour, but it’s worth the wait.” He thanked me, already heading off toward the line.

After a few more plates, we heard the announcer assembling the bacon-eating contest. As we joined the growing crowd, our competitive spirits piqued and we were pumped to do some sideline cheering. The contestants were seated at a long table, some with napkins tucked into their shirts, some with hair tied back, and one with his daughter on his lap. They smiled at the crowd and wearily eyed their plates of bacon goodies. A moment later they were shoving it all into their mouths, gulping it down with water. It was quite the spectacle.

Minutes later, everyone gasped with excitement as one contestant (the guy with his daughter) cleared his plate... but hadn’t yet finished swallowing. No dice. Suddenly, the guy I'd pegged as a prime competitor grabbed the lead! The crowd roared as he slowly stood and raised his hands, swallowing his last bites while nodding triumphantly, face a bit reddened, eyes a tad bloodshot. Trembling, he accepted his hard-earned trophy: a small bronze pig.

By the end of the day, our strategy had all but evaporated, probably owing to our sugar and beer buzzes. We made one last sweep to make sure we'd hit all of the major bases before strolling out into the sun-drenched parking lot. Mission accomplished.

Getting To Know Puerto Rico (Again)

August 13, 2013 by Loren in Caribbean, Dining Out, Food, Places

Once a part of Spain, and a territory of the United States since 1898, the beautiful island of Puerto Rico has plenty of charm to go around. Full disclosure: I may be a little biased about this since I'm half-Puerto Rican, and have visited a few times before with family, but hear me out.

The beaches are gorgeous and relaxing, and the old capital city is a joy to explore, with its narrow cobblestone streets lined with Spanish architecture. Plus, the whole interior of the island is lush with greenery and spiked with amazing views.

Our two-week visit was sponsored by my mom (who was born in Utuado, PR), and included her 95-year-old parents, my sister and her family and my brother and his family. Accommodations were planned as such: a couple nights with my mom's cousin, a week in Rincón at a beachside six-bedroom house with a pool, and five nights in a high-rise condo in Isla Verde, near San Juan (the capital and largest city).

After a few days of beach, pool, and dominoes, we all headed to the Arecibo Observatory, famously seen in the 90s film Goldeneye. You'll marvel at this thing's size and achievement; it is, after all, the largest radio telescope in the world. The view of the massive science project is only topped by the sharp karsts surrounding it. The museum ain't bad either.

The unofficial mascot of Puerto Rico is the coqui, a tiny tree frog heard everywhere on the island come nightfall. Its name is derived from its signature call, a whistle that sounds like "coqui." We got to see about five of the little guys during our trip, and since frogs are some of my favorite creatures, I was totally stoked.

About an hour's drive southeast of San Juan is an incredible experience: the only tropical rainforest in the United States, El Yunque. We spent the day hiking paths and embracing the dampness, and I enjoyed the best experience of the trip by far - wading in a freezing-cold tall and raging waterfall. As it poured down more cold rain, my heart raced and I couldn't contain the giant smile plastered on my face.

From the surfing town of Rincón on the west coast, to the glitzy beaches of Isla Verde, Puerto Rico is the place for beach lovers. We had a blast snorkeling and swimming, but our favorite beach experience happened to be a short hike along the rocks overlooking Playa Sucia, a popular beach cove with pristine white sands lining turquoise surf in the southwest corner of the island. We spotted at least 15 iguanas crawling around on the cliffs and soaked in the view of the entire beach down below.

Perhaps my favorite part of traveling is eating food you can't find anywhere else. Puerto Rico doesn't disappoint, with its mix of Spanish, Caribbean and American flavors. One of the most iconic of these is lechón, in which a whole pig is roasted on a spit til it has a wonderfully crispy and salty skin. The best place to find it is on a Saturday in the tiny town of Guavate, where a short strip of a local road is dubbed the "ruta de lechón."

Another culinary delight is mofongo, a mashed plantain dish (akin to like America's mashed potatoes) filled with seafood, chicken, pork or veggies. It's hard to come by in the states so we sampled it as much as we could while we were on the island.

I had traveled to Puerto Rico a few times growing up, the last time being as a teenager. Getting to explore Puerto Rico all over again as an adult, and look at my family's heritage first-hand, was a truly meaningful experience.

Want to see PR in action? Watch the video of our trip.