Up Close & Personal with Australian Animals

Imagine a place where you can hold a koala like a baby, walk right up to lounging kangaroos and curious emus, and feed wild lorikeets. Add in a dozen or so more quintessential Australian icons and you’ve got the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, the best hands-on zoo experience we’ve ever had.

Once inside, we were on a mission to accomplish our main goal: cuddling a koala. Mine was adorably named Bagel, and he was surprisingly heavy for his compact size, probably around 15 pounds. His coat was hardy, feeling more like felt then velvet. His long dark claws, normally used for grabbing branches, pressed gently against my chest. I wish I could have held him forever. Kristen’s koala was named Byron, and she also immediately fell in love. I think we had found our new favorite place in Australia.

The sanctuary itself, dating back to 1929, is the oldest and largest of its kind, and lies in a quiet suburb just outside Brisbane. Popular among tourists, it also seems very pampering to the resident marsupials: the koalas need no cages, because they don’t want to leave. We were astonished to hear that koalas spend 18-19 hours of their day sleeping, and the rest of the time slowly chomping away at fresh eucalyptus leaves. And sometimes (for no more than 30 minutes a day), they pose for photos with eager animal-lovers just like us.

After holding the koalas and picking up dorky photo prints to prove it, we were a little giddy to say the least. We meandered through the rest of the park, spying exotic birds, bizarre reptiles, amphibians, lazy dingoes, a giant cassowary, and a wombat.

We were thoroughly entertained by all of the sights until we wandered into the dark building housing one of the most amazing animals we’ve ever seen: a platypus. We had the room to ourselves, and the small reptile/mammal - a monotreme, we’re told - unknowingly put on a show for us. With his beaver-like tail and duck-like bill, he buzzed around in his tank, hunting excitedly for a little prawn, which he eventually snagged. Unfortunately, none of our photos turned out, but we did capture his cuteness on video:

Leaving the sanctuary, we again realized that Australia, having been separated from the other continents for eons, has some of the most unique and amazing wildlife. Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary just might be the best way to explore it close up.

Disclosure: I'm traveling in Australia for my DTour sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton, however, what I do and write about is still entirely up to me.

Lingering in the Blue Mountains

Time slipped away from us while we sipped our cold beers, the sun shining brightly over a blue-green landscape through the pub’s windows. It was a serene scene until our train, the 6:30 back to Sydney, suddenly pulled into view, catapulting us from our relaxing bar seats and into an immediate sprint. The bartender’s last words: “I can tell you right now, you’re not going to make it.”

We’d spent the day exploring the Blue Mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s a quick 2-hour train ride west of Sydney (‘the big smoke” as the mountain locals say). It’s a lush tropical forest carpeted with eucalyptus trees that fill the air with tiny oil droplets, scattering light into a predominantly blue hue.

The region’s beauty was striking. Steep staircases led us to the base of skyscraper-high waterfalls. Fern-laden winding walks ended in super-scenic overlooks, showcasing the famed Three Sisters rock formations and Mount Solitary. Brilliant reds from tropical birds (crimson rosellas and red-tailed black cockatoos) stopped us in our tracks while we oohed and ahhed their every move. It’s the perfect escape from the city bustle, with so many chances to pause and soak it all in.

In the end, the bartender was right. But missing our train didn’t sour our mood. We laughed as we walked out of breath back to the pub, past locals literally applauding our efforts. Our spirits lifted as we came back to our spot to find my half-finished beer still on the table. We ordered a second round and settled in to watch the setting sun and wait for the 7:30 train. And you know what? It wasn’t a bad place to have to spend another hour.

Disclosure: I'm traveling awesome Australia for my DTour of a Lifetime sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton.

Bondi Icebergs, Or How I Almost Lost My Wedding Ring

Judging by the fact that two different locals asked us how we found it, I’m guessing the Bondi Icebergs Swimming Club is somewhat of a hidden gem. At $5.50AU per adult for a scenic oceanside swim, I’d say it’s a steal. Since 1929, the saltwater pool has given people the chance to swim laps (sans-sharks) by the sea, with crashing waves spilling in and seagulls flying overhead. The bar upstairs, perfect for a glass of wine and breathtaking view after a swim, doesn’t hurt either.

Unfortunately for us, the weather in Sydney had been unseasonably chilly for mid-summer, even moreso at Bondi Beach where the wind was blowing unforgivingly. After watching the swimmers for several minutes and seriously contemplating a hot coffee instead, we decided that leaving without a dip would be a regrettable choice. So we paid the small fee, changed into our swimsuits, and braved the chilly turquoise waters.

It really wasn’t all that cold once you got in and moved around, but my fingers didn’t get the memo. Within a couple of minutes, my wedding band abruptly slipped off (for the first time ever) and sank. Immediately, I stopped and flagged down a nearby lap-swimmer and asked if he could find my ring. His eyes weren’t too good, he told me, but he tried briefly anyway, returning empty-handed. Surrendering his goggles, Kristen dove down and within her first breath, surprised both of us and found it no time (see her face in the video: genuine disbelief upon surfacing). Good thing too, because if I'd lost it, she would’ve had a fit.

Cheers to this local who lent us his goggles:

During our post-swim de-stressing sauna session, we chatted with an expat from Tucson who has lived in Sydney for 8 years (spoiler alert: he loves it). He recommended Nina’s Ploy Thai for dinner, so we took his advice and, after a short walk down the beach, found the BYO hole-in-the-wall restaurant filled with decidedly Australian locals. The bare, white walls and simple tablescapes (read: a box of tissues) made us feel right at home. We ordered duck noodle soup and drunk noodles, and savored every mouth-watering bite.

To round out our Bondi bonding time, we strolled over to Gelato Messina, a top-notch cold treat destination that our goggle lender had raved to us about. The open-air “bar” felt like a movie premiere, with excited fans queueing up and spilling onto the sidewalk. Our espresso/chocolate and pear/rhubarb scoops were decadent and delicious. As we walked off in search of a bus back to our hotel, very full and very happy, we had absolutely zero regrets.

Disclosure: Even though I'm traveling in Australia on behalf of DoubleTree by Hilton for my DTour of a Lifetime, what I write about is up to me.

Sydney's (Very) Scenic Walk to Manly

It’s about the journey… not the destination.

Sure, you could take the ferry to Manly, a funky upscale surftown northeast of Sydney. Or, you could go at your own pace on the four-hour Manly Scenic Walkway (MSW). The first step for us was a bus ride about 30 minutes or so from city center, darting over the landmark Harbour Bridge with quick peeks at the tips of the famed Opera House and charming, hilly neighborhoods. At the second bridge, called the Spit, we hopped off (or, as they say here, “alighted” - new word for us) to let our feet do the rest of the job.

The MSW is a 9.5km path that winds along the varied coastline of the middle and north harbour between Spit Bridge and its namesake peninsular suburb (stay tuned for jokes about manliness), cutting right through the Sydney Harbour National Park. The walk showcases some of the city's best outdoorsy assets, including beaches, forests, rock formations, a waterfall, and even some wild animals.

Our walk began in lush tropical greenery, with large leaves encroaching on the path and small lizards eyeing us nervously as we brushed by. They seemed like a cross between iguanas and bearded dragons; we later found out they’re basically just that, called Eastern Water Dragons. With each sighting, the lizards got bigger and bigger. A sudden wave of fear washed over us. “Oh crap,” we thought, “We’re hiking in Australia, where everything can kill us.” But the anxiety soon subsided and we continued on, only slightly weary of impending doom from poisonous creatures.

Happy families played at the beaches and friendly locals passed us on the trail with warm smiles and waves. Weaving in and out of coves, climbing up and down wooden steps, and catching spectacular views was the standard. During the final stretch, we even stole glimpses of a few kookaburras (iconic Australian birds), who called attention to themselves with their monkey-like cackling.

Arriving in Manly brought on a change of scenery: hordes of tourists and locals (Manly men and women), most in swimsuits and flip-flops. Around town we saw a Manly Italian restaurant, Manly salon, and even a Manly pharmacy (their number-one seller is, I presume, testosterone). Wet-suited surfers were out catching waves and strutting their Manly-ness.

We were famished, so we bee-lined through the crowded esplanade and right into the first oceanside eatery serving fish and chips. The Fish Shack, with its chalkboard signage and hand-painted wall art, was proud to serve only sustainably-caught seafood, so we were immediately on-board. We opted for local Manly beers and the national specialty of barramundi - Kristen’s beer-battered and fried, mine grilled (perhaps not the Manly-est of choices). After a four-hour hike, it was exactly what we needed.

The return ferry back to Sydney took much less time than our exhausting walk, but it was a perfect way to end the day. We sat lazily and shuttled past the same cliffs and coves that we had laboriously trekked through hours earlier, catching a much different perspective of the beautiful bay. Further on, our new and improved view of the Sydney Opera House was a welcome reward for a long day of hard work.

Disclosure: I'm traveling on a #DTour in Australia on behalf of DoubleTree by Hilton, but it's totally cool because I still do and write about the things that interest me. Hope you enjoy it!

Sydney Spotlight: Hyde Park & Darlinghurst

One day in Sydney, and we're already in love.

After a slight visa mishap at LAX followed by a surprisingly restful 14-hour flight across the Pacific, we were whisked away from the airport in a black BMW, and delivered to the stunning Hilton Sydney in the Central Business District. At the reception desk, it was hard not to stare up into the ceiling, mouth agape, stealing looks at the giant wire sculpture that dominates the atrium (to us it began to resemble campfire smoke billowing upwards). Our slightly disheveled travel attire seemed out of place in the shiny lobby, so we took advantage of my new HHonors Gold Member status and retreated to the 36th floor executive lounge to wait for our room. By 11am, our suite was ready.

View from the Hilton Sydney

As a home base in Sydney, the Hilton couldn’t be any better situated. It’s in the heart of city center, surrounded by shopping options, a block from the gorgeous Hyde Park, and a short walk to nearly everything. Once we were settled and refreshed, we stepped out through big revolving doors (they spin the other direction!) on a mission for the one thing I really needed: a haircut. My enormous winter beard was in need of some taming and, after all, it’s summer here.

A 15-minute stroll through the park landed us in hip Darlinghurst, a quiet neighborhood by day full of young, fit hipsters, cafes and bars, and interesting street art. With its tree-lined streets and diverse architecture, Darlinghurst seems to be the perfect city neighborhood.

Walking into Sedition, a hole-in-the-wall barbershop, feels a little overwhelming at first. The two-seat shop is filled floor to ceiling with loud, playful, anti-establishment work: giant papier mache phalluses plastered with repeated words (a series of "financial" works called his "Stimulus Package") looms over the interior doorway; plastic zip-tie flowers with colorful plastic petals; canvases of colored duct tape. It's as much an artist's studio as it is a barbershop.

Sedition Barbershop and the barber himself, Mick

Mick, the owner/barber/artist was quiet and laid-back, with bright, thoughtful eyes and quick hands. Music pulsed through the shop. With minimal direction, he sculpted my winter shag into something a bit more suitable for summertime. It was truly the best cut I've had in years.

Newly liberated from my beard, which had grown a bit unwieldy and had hampered my eating for 3 months, I was excited to sink my teeth into a good burger. So when we stumbled into Grill'd, a local grass-fed burger chain, demonstrating that fast food can be done locally, sustainably, and ethically, it felt as if the stars had aligned. We quickly ordered a Baa Baa Burger to split: lamb, avocado, cheese, spicy mayo, lettuce, tomato. Served on a sourdough roll (sandwich-style), it hit the spot bigtime.

Next up, drinks. We ventured back toward a place we had passed earlier and plopped down on some stools at Pocket Bar, a cozy hipster-saloon with plenty of character: large pop art painted onto the walls; sheet music plastered along the ceiling; deep-set bookcases supporting the glass-top shadowbox bar; knick knacks worthy of any vintage consignment store lining every inch of every shelf. Being the only patrons at 4:30 in the afternoon, we had the chance to chat up both bartenders while sipping cocktails. The first one asked if we were meth heads after hearing we were from New Mexico (Breaking Bad fan). The second gave us helpful tips about avoiding death in Australia (which is everywhere). And we even got a couple on-the-house drinks.

Before leaving the neighborhood, we decided to grab a quick bite at Red Lantern, owned by Luke Nguyen, an Australian-Vietnamese celebrity chef we have watched on Cooking Channel. The Bun Thit, lemongrass pork and herbs you roll up in lettuce and eat with your hands, was rather expensive for what it is, but also the best Vietnamese food we’ve eaten since Hanoi.

By that time, the jet lag was catching up with us and we reluctantly started back to the hotel. Walking back through Hyde park at sundown had a different feel, so we lingered. Street performers, skateboarders, tourists and Sydneysiders alike were enjoying the mild summer evening among the tall trees. People were even lined up for the Stonehenge moonbounce, part of the ongoing Sydney Festival. Huge bats flew overhead. Huge, like the size of our cat, with wings. Sitting on a bench until night officially fell, we realized that Sydney already held us in its spell. We could get used to this.

Take a look at our first day in Sydney in action:

Disclosure: I am traveling in Australia on behalf of DoubleTree by Hilton, but no worries, they just booked my airfare and hotels; what I do and what I write about is all me.

5 cities. 20 days. Australia, here I come!

2013 was an unusually lucky year for me. My winning streak included: free tickets to a concert in Denver, an awesome tote bag from Sweetgreen, and best of all, a three-week trip to Australia sponsored by DoubleTree by Hilton, now just days away from reality.

Just after Christmas, a care package from DoubleTree arrived on the doorstep. Among the goodies, a brand new GoPro Hero 3+ Silver Edition. And yes, I get to keep it. Needless to say, I am unbelievably excited to head out in less than a week and share my adventures along the way. And get this, Kristen is coming with me!

The stars aligned for five other DTourists, and already I've witnessed three fellow travelers take their turns. Jenn Winter toured Europe, Virginia Stuart-Taylor traversed North America, and Jenny Lowthrop ventured across Africa. Soon it'll be my turn. (Look out for MJ Tam in Asia and Megan Donoghue in South America.)

Here's a quick rundown. Kristen and I will kick off our 20-day trip in the big city of Sydney. Next, we'll go to Brisbane, where I'll be treated to a private surf lesson. Further north, we'll go to Cairns for a first-hand look at the Great Barrier Reef. Our fourth stop will be Alice Springs, epicenter of the Outback. Finally, we'll head to Darwin for more tropical and beachy stuff. It's gonna be epic.

Now that I've read Bill Bryson's "In a Sunburned Country" and watched a few DVDs about Australia, I'm nervous and excited all at the same time. The continent sounds incredibly diverse and beautiful, as well as pretty dangerous. According to Bryson, "five of Australia's creatures — the funnel web spider, box jellyfish, blue-ringed octopus, paralysis tick, and stonefish — are the most lethal of their type in the world." Good thing I like extreme things; I gladly accept the challenge. And if a deadly creature does get the best of me, at least it'll all be captured on camera.

Keep up during the trip by following me on Instagram and Twitter, refreshing this website everyday, and liking our new-ish page on Facebook. Wish us luck!

Full disclosure: I'm traveling to Australia as a DTourist on behalf of DoubleTree by Hilton, but don't worry, they don't own me. All of the content is mine, and I promise I'll be sharing my honest opinions.

Our 10 Favorite Moments of 2013

Even though we didn't get to any foreign countries last year, we traveled quite a bit across the expansive US of A, and we were lucky enough to spend quality time with friends and family along the way. Looking back on 2013, we feel pretty good about the way we spent our time. So, without further ado, here are ten of our favorite moments captured as photos (in no particular order):

1. Hiking in the US's only tropical rainforest at El Yunque National Park

2. Exploring Yosemite National Park

3. Pulling together some last-minute Halloween cheer

4. Going to see a jaw-dropping Cirque du Soleil show

5. Pulling over to see this roadside public art installation

6. Blowing our minds at the James Turrell exhibit in New York City

7. Experiencing mass ascension at Albuquerque's Balloon Fiesta

8. Turning 30!

9. Weddings!! (Congrats to Shannon & Jared, and Ellen & Sean!)

10. Impromptu New Year's Eve restaurant crawl in Philly

(Again, these are just some of our favorite moments as photos. We had a wonderful year and did lots of awesome stuff that didn't always get photographed.)

Cheers to a great year, and an even better 2014!

The Wild Side of Albuquerque

When we at last reached Sandia's summit in the late afternoon, my tired body relished the crisp mountain air. I handed over my credit card in exchange for a pair of cheap one-way tickets. Outside on the wooden deck, we breathed in the enormous view and marveled at the Albuquerque grid stretching west before us. From way up here, we could almost pick out our tiny house (okay, my mom's house) far down below.

After having spent way too much of the hot summer indoors, Kristen and I decided that it was time to retackle the La Luz Trail, a not-too-strenuous trek to the top of the mountain we see everyday from our backyard. The eight-mile path winds its way up through four different climatic zones, ending at a panoramic intersection of east-facing ski lifts and a west-facing tram.

The first couple of sweaty miles offered us a fair share of prickly pear cacti, piñon trees, skittish lizards and chattering birds. My sandaled toes grew dusty as I squinted at the monument-like peaks surrounding us, searching for familiar vistas to orient myself. But the mountain, which changes colors throughout the day from city level, had taken on an unrecognizable form. It was even more spectacular up close.

The upper half of the hike is drastically different. You can expect to find colorful wildflowers, fragrant pines, and unusually large squirrels with tufted ears. And be prepared to flex those leg muscles. There are tons of switchbacks, cutting back and forth through dark forest and across a sunlit slope piled with jagged pink granite rocks.

High contrast: the lower half of the hike vs. the upper half

The sense of accomplishment I felt at the top, knowing that my legs alone carried me here, was immediately followed by a feeling of relief that all we had to do was hop on an electric-powered tram back down. Once the forty or so people boarded into the dangling box, it hung heavy for a moment before swooping into motion. It was surprisingly smooth. We floated down towards civilization, as if in a giant elevator, and savored our knee-saving descent. My only wish: to feel the breeze just outside the window.

sandia-tram-albuquerque

Video: Balloon Fiesta 2013

Being able to watch hundreds of hot-air balloons unfolding, filling and lifting off into the sky is an experience I'll never forget. While we did capture some great photos of the event, I decided to throw together a quick video showing just how amazing it is in motion. I shot several short videos with Vine and then later edited them together on my iPhone (with the iMovie app). Let's just call it an experiment in phone video production. The video quality leaves much to be desired, but maybe that's a good thing; you'll just have to go experience Balloon Fiesta for yourself.

Bacon Fest: Field Day for Foodies

“Chew, Chew, Swallow!” The crowd chanted louder and louder as they rose to their feet in anticipation, camera phones recording. Two of the contestants were nearly finished with their plates, which only a couple of minutes earlier held a sampling of the day’s bites. It was the same food that was in all of our stomachs.

We’d spent that unseasonably warm November day among thousands of fellow food lovers, gathered in the sun on the grassy fields that surround Albuquerque’s Balloon Museum. It was the first inaugural Southwest Bacon Fest, and the grounds were engulfed with salty, sweet, and smoky aromas, constant reminders of the day’s star ingredient. Like all of the other attendees, we’d set out to try as many of the day’s dishes as possible.

Southwest Bacon Fest

Enter friendly competitiveness, the undeniable undertone of food festivals. Just like sports, there are elements of strategy, resolve, and stamina. The goal is to taste as much as possible before a) time runs out, or b) you can’t fit anything else in your stomach.

Our plan of attack: walk among the crowds, surveying the lines, peeking at the range of offerings. Bacon doughnuts, bacon waffles, bacon coffee, bacon brownies, bacon sliders, bacon hot dogs, and bacon ice cream, to name a few. Realization set in that we’d miscalculated even before arriving: why had we eaten breakfast at home? Rookie mistake. Pushing that memory aside, we hopped in line, agreed to share everything, and readied ourselves for breakfast #2 (and #3, and #4...).

bacon donut

By the third queue, our strategy had evolved. Divide and conquer, as they say. Loren headed off in search of thirst-quenching beers, while I ended up at the end of a particularly long string of people, in hopes of trying the most basic dish being served: bacon on a stick. Half an hour into the wait, I was sandwiched in line between Mr. Neck Tattoos and Mr. Plaid Shirt Grandpa. On any other given day, we would’ve been scattered across the city in our respective bubbles. But that day, with beloved bacon as our mutual focus, our differences faded into the background. We descended into discussion, suggesting must-taste dishes and sharing the surprising flavors we’d encountered so far. Food has an amazing ability to bring people together. Plus, waiting in long lines creates a sense of camaraderie.

After I’d successfully retrieved my bacon skewer slathered in sweet chili sauce, my picnic table neighbor’s eyes fixated on the stick, eyebrows lifting. “Now that looks good. Where’d you get it?” he asked, evidently on the hunt for his next dish. I pointed, still chewing, then added, “I waited in line for over an hour, but it’s worth the wait.” He thanked me, already heading off toward the line.

Bacon on a stick

Brown Ale and Ice Cream

After a few more plates, we heard the announcer assembling the bacon-eating contest. As we joined the growing crowd, our competitive spirits piqued and we were pumped to do some sideline cheering. The contestants were seated at a long table, some with napkins tucked into their shirts, some with hair tied back, and one with his daughter on his lap. They smiled at the crowd and wearily eyed their plates of bacon goodies. A moment later they were shoving it all into their mouths, gulping it down with water. It was quite the spectacle.

The contestants of the eating contest

Minutes later, everyone gasped with excitement as one contestant (the guy with his daughter) cleared his plate... but hadn’t yet finished swallowing. No dice. Suddenly, the guy I'd pegged as a prime competitor grabbed the lead! The crowd roared as he slowly stood and raised his hands, swallowing his last bites while nodding triumphantly, face a bit reddened, eyes a tad bloodshot. Trembling, he accepted his hard-earned trophy: a small bronze pig.

By the end of the day, our strategy had all but evaporated, probably owing to our sugar and beer buzzes. We made one last sweep to make sure we'd hit all of the major bases before strolling out into the sun-drenched parking lot. Mission accomplished.

the winning dish from Kung Fu Cowboy